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Mother Theresa of Cairo

Monday, May 23rd, 2011

That is the way we refer to the remarkable woman we came to know 22 years ago when we first moved to Cairo. We had asked author and anthropologist, Andrea Rugh, how we could meet and help people who were working directly with the poor of Egypt.  Andrea introduced us to Madam Ansaf and her work. She probably invented the idea of “micro-lending” and engaged women in creative work that they could sell, how to rely on each other, and conversations about how to improve their lives.  Yesterday we spent the whole day with her son, his wife (an educator in Cairo), their daughters (one a translator in the movie industry), son-in-laws (all three men in the high tech business), and Ansaf’s new great grandson.  Ansaf’s son, Hanna, and his family took us to see her.

Madam Ansaf has become the center of near-worship by her followers.  She glows with the same radiant, loving nature that we have always known.  At nearly 90, she has never been to a doctor, nor does she take any medicines.  She doesn’t eat unless fed, telling us that “as long as she knows that anyone is without food, she cannot eat.”

She used to cook often for us (and made us promise to return so she could cook for us again), call herself our mother, and still asks about four of our children who came to visit while we lived here: Laura, Ellen, April and Tod.  A clipping on the wall reminded us of one of the stories of which she is most proud.  A young blind man was alone and had no prospect for marriage. And a young woman from upper Egypt had been disfigured by fire.  She suggested they marry—yet the young man hesitated. “I must touch her face,” he told Ansaf.  In the traditional family, it was unheard of to touch an unmarried woman’s face, but the father relented.  After lovingly touching the woman’s face, the young man smiled and said he would like to marry her.  They married and had four perfect sons.

Watch for more on the revolution…Linda and Morgan

 

 

 

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Friday in Tahrir Square

Friday, May 20th, 2011

Today we were reminded of photos from America’s civil war revealing families with picnic baskets scattered around the hills to watch the battles.  We entered Tahrir Square today after being alerted that one million people would gather after Friday prayers. First we came upon families with small children—who ran to introduce themselves to us and get into photos—sitting around on the steps and leaning against the walls enjoying their lunches.  Then the T-shirts, gum, candy, corn, tea, cotton candy vendors.  And, signs with demands, photos, and satirized drawings of Mubarak emptying his pockets.  Painted across one building: “Enjoy the Revolution.” Many were.

Among the 3000 or so attendees, there was also serious business at hand: a stage with photos, signs and speeches.  A row of women in hijabs and young girls holding signs demanding justice from the Mubaraks.  Flyers promoting a new presidential candidate.  That is when the action began.  Three or four smaller groups began to move quickly, threatening, and pushing. The police got in the middle of the conflict and called for reinforcements.  We kept snapping pictures (no one seemed to object) and had to keep moving to avoid being drawn into the crowds, although we didn’t feel endangered at any time.

Tonight, we joined old friends for a luscious home cooked Egyptian meal.  Our host is a retired dean from AUC with whom Morgan worked nearly 20 years ago; her husband, a genetics scholar; their daughter, an employee of UNICEF and activist in the revolution.  They told us that the three biggest issues in Egypt at this time are: security, religious conflict, and the economy.  We have the impression that perhaps the desire to punish the Mubaraks may be getting in the way of dealing with more urgent issues and problems.  Yet how do you tell parents who lost their sons to forgive and forget?

More tomorrow, Linda and Morgan

 

 

 

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Arab Spring 1

Thursday, May 19th, 2011

We just finished listening to President Obama’s speech on the Middle East and are feeling proud. It was specific, challenging and (we feel) spoke to the concerns of Egyptians. Hopefully meetings with Israel’s Netanyahu in the next few days will produce some action on a Palestinian state.  In the next five days we have several social events with Moslem and Christian friends here and will discover their reactions.

This was the second time today that President Obama has been the center of attention here.  Today, after returning from the pyramids, we met up with two officials from the US Embassy and had lunch. They alerted us to a planned demonstration on the street below us.  As we emerged from lunch, the demonstration was in full force down the street.  It was different from the one we’d observed yesterday in Tahrir Square (a large one is planned for tomorrow) in that the participants were clearly fundamentalists: men with beards, galabayas and hats, women in full black burkas (which are unusual in Cairo).  A large sign addressed to Obama was being held up by two men, while others held smaller signs with the same message.  One of the women allowed me to take her picture with the sign: “Freedom for Omar Abd El Rahman” with the blind iman’s photo.

Last night, our friend’s daughter who had been an HR director for Coke (she is Magda in Cairo Diary), explained how she and a friend had opened their own personnel recruitment agency.  She explained that while she had never taken an interest in politics before, she now faithfully watches the news.  This new sense of engagement and empowerment among the youth was reported by our embassy friends as well.

More tomorrow, Linda

 

 

 

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Faces of the Nile

Wednesday, May 18th, 2011

Our room at the Shepheard looks west across the Nile that runs beneath our balcony on the other side of the Corniche.  Felucca boats and river restaurants sit on both shores, while the opera house and grounds of the Nile island of Zamalek (where we used to live) sit just to the west.

In the morning, an eerie mist lies close to the water while geese fly low, nearly touching the gray water.  As the sun rises, everything turns to the gold of sand; yet as it rises more fully and during the heat of the day, the view turns white with unfortunate blankets of gray-brown smog nestled among the buildings.  With evening, the air appears to clear and the sunset turns this world of the Nile back into shades of gold and orange.  And with night, lights appear on the horizon and hug both sides of the Great River.

Is it possible that nothing has changed? Or that the river and shore masquerade as historically constant?  Life seems quiet and normal, but tonight at dinner and in the next days we’ll learn more about what is true in a land that has nearly always been prisoner to external colonists or internal autocrats.  More about what we are learning soon….

It’s wonderful to be back in this magical land, Linda

 

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First day in Beirut

Sunday, May 15th, 2011

Midnight, May 14, we flew from Frankfurt south along the Mediterranean coast, over the Greek Isles, Cyprus and came into Beirut with a nearly full moon turning the sea to milk.  From our hotel, now about 3:00 am (we had been traveling since 7 pm Friday night) we gazed from our balcony at the lights cascading from the mountains to the east. Not until we awoke this morning—or noon to be more exact—did we realize that we were by sea.

In the afternoon, we walked to the Corniche (drive-walk bordering the sea) and had lunch amid families and their beautiful (gamila) children. Sunday is the day free from work here—much to our surprise since Friday is the Moslem day of rest.  The day was incredibly balmy—perhaps in the mid-70s.  Along the coast, young men swam in the welcoming waters, diving from moss-covered rocks. Fisherman steadied poles that may have been 30 feet long.  In the outdoor cafés, frequented by local families, about 20% of the women wore hijabs (the scarf) and many smoked the Arab pipes.

Beirut is a clean Cairo with virtually no trash on the streets, yet the construction is as disorganized.  Solar panels are abundant.  The city is peaceful, although five were killed along the Lebanese-Israeli border today as people massed to demonstrate against Israel—today being the anniversary of the founding of Israel (Nakbo Day). Islamic-Coptic Christian violence continues in Egypt.  As in the US, huge billboards predict the end of the world on May 21, 2011—so perhaps we don’t have to worry about other problems.

In the morning, we’ll meet with the staff of the education project (TAMAM) here at the hotel, then take off for Cairo.  More on Tuesday….

Have a great month, Linda

 

 

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Moving with the wind…

Monday, April 18th, 2011

 

Which is ferocious here.  Our neighbors from home, Sharon and Tom are here by way of small plane, which can’t fly now.  However, the wind doesn’t slow down the Taosenas nor thwart their creative impulses.  A generous and fascinating people.

On Saturday, we were all invited to a delicious dinner in the new home of Liz Cunningham and Skip Miller who seem to be at the apex of several other friends here. Liz is the keeper and writer of the website “Mabel Dodge Luhan and the Remarkable Women of Taos” and author of the acclaimed In Contemporary Rhythm: The Art of Ernest L. Blumenschein.” She is now preparing for the year of the woman, next year along with the Centennial of New Mexico.  The notion of how to identify  “remarkable women” is a companion to our search for “women to watch.”

Skip is a historian and forest archeologist (and potter) who knows Taos and the Pueblo Indians with an exacting intimacy that is immediately treasured.

We prepare to leave Taos on Wednesday. The short visit this time requires that we return in the summer and fall.  Perhaps I could linger longer on this book, continually finding excuses to return to this wonderful land.

While here, I’ve had the pleasure to read with the New Mexico Writers at Mabel Dodge Luhan’s on April 8, and at a book talk and signing in the DH Lawrence room of the La Fonda Hotel on April 15.  A busy time.  And, am getting close to the outline for the Taos book with these themes: DH Lawrence, the archeology of communities, Justine’s search for spirituality and consciousness, Amir’s participation in the revolution of Egypt.

 

Next post: reports from Egypt

 

 

 

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Returning to Taos…

Monday, April 4th, 2011

With the appearance of April, we eagerly return to Taos to research the third novel in my Cairo Trilogy.  Warm days, ferocious winds, and cold nights. Snow capped mountains and temperamental clouds.  As always, welcoming and receptive people.

On the way to Taos, we spent a couple of days in Santa Fe to talk with the curator of the archives at the New Mexico History Museum and visit the Museum of Contemporary Native Arts to see the exhibit of Soul Sister: Re-imagining Kateri Tekakwitha—the almost Indian saint (she has yet to be canonized), and the excellent presentation at the St. Francis Cathedral by artist and author Giovanna Paponetti about the life of Kateri. At the Georgia O’Keeffe museum we heard about Gertrude Stein and the Modernists.  On Friday, we sought out Joe Bacon, weaver par excellence, who explained the processes of dying wool and weaving.  Many of these experiences were shared with three Santa Fe friends.

Two major events will take place during this visit  to Taos (March 31-April 20). This Friday, April 8, an evening with DH Lawrence will be held at Mabel Dodge Luhan’s home during which I’ll read from the fictionalized letters from DH Lawrence to his muse Isabella in my second novel, Etruscan Evenings. On April 15, artist friends Jan Mellor and Steve Gootgeld will host a book talk for Cairo Diary and Etruscan Evenings in the DH Lawrence room at the La Fonda Hotel.  Many of Lawrence’s paintings that were confiscated as obscene in London in the late twenties hang dramatically on one wall of this room.  Inspiring.

An this time unfolds, we will be learning from local weavers, archeologists and anthropologists, Pueblo Indians, artists, social workers and educators, members of the DH Lawrence society, journalists, writers… More on Taos soon.

 

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ASCD…not “Waiting for Superman”

Tuesday, March 29th, 2011

 

My husband, Morgan, and I saw “Waiting for Superman” a few days before attending ASCD (Association of Supervision and Curriculum Development, the annual conference of the world’s largest educational professional association).  We were depressed.  While the film is worth seeing, very well done, and inspiring in many ways—it also carries a tragic message: public schools can’t be saved. A poor child’s only choice is to enter the lottery to compete for the scare seats in a successful charter school.

Fortunately, the film, the governors of Wisconsin and New Jersey, and the general state of the union, have not depleted the profound optimism of the 8000 educators from 42 countries attending the conference.

Through themes like the whole child, self-directing and empowered students, brain-based learning, creativity, technology, engaging curriculum and fundamental school reform, evidence of success abounded.  From Singapore to London, New Zealand to Barbados, Brazil to New Brunswick, and all 50 US states, educators have found ways to inspire and provoke student learning in amazing ways.

Morgan and I presented a session on “Choosing Transformation in your own Race to the Top,” arguing that all schools can be deeply and sustainably changed.  Transformation for us means: redesigning the roles, relationships, structures,forms and time in order to create sustainable, high leadership capacity schools, districts and organizations.  Quite a mouthful.  Yet we have faith and optimism that schools are not only redeemable, but so is the sparkling humanity who occupy them.

Linda & Morgan

 

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Egypt is not Libya…

Tuesday, March 1st, 2011

Egypt is not Libya, nor Yemen.  Egypt is a cosmopolitan, open society. Young people are educated and women are more free than in most Arab countries.  While many are poor, Egyptians have a strong sense of community and experience of turning to one another. So we cannot expect the same results in Libya that took place in Egypt or Tunisia, where the militarys would not fire on their own people.

Yet, we still wait to hear the democratic outcomes in any of these countries, including Egypt.

Linda

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Education and Revolution

Wednesday, February 23rd, 2011

The philosophy of the classroom today will be the philosophy of government tomorrow.

-Abraham Lincoln

During the 90’s, the work of the National Curriculum Center in Egypt reframed the meaning of curriculum, instruction, textbooks, and professional development.  When this work began under the auspices of the Egyptian Ministry of Education, the direction of Dr. Kawsar Kouchok and the assistance of a few Americans, textbooks were written as free-standing, non-articulated entities, which lacked activities for students to perform, and were based on the notion that memorization constituted thinking and learning.

This failing formula was reversed with the founding of the Center.  Curriculum and instruction sought to open rather than close minds. The curriculum designed problems to solve, puzzling issues to discuss, contrasts to enable choices—and most of all, empowerment through self-directed learning.  The Center created new textbooks and trained teachers and supervisors from all over the country. It worked with UNICEF to establish community schools for girls. Several of these conversations are recounted in my novel, Cairo Diary: an Egyptian fable.

On January 25, this generation of young people used modern social networks and their own sense of agency to occupy Tahrir Square and bring down the government.  It was peaceful and organized; leadership and the tasks of self-governance were shared.

I had the honor to work with talented young Egyptian scholars from 1989 into this century.  To understand the contributions of these changes in education to the revolution is difficult to surmise, since so many crucial factors converged: 30 years (actually, 7000 years) of autocratic rule; satellite television and social media; President Obama’s speech in 2009; the continual education and liberation of women (for more than a decade, the majority of students at Cairo University have been women); the location of Cairo and Alexandria as cosmopolitan Meccas….

Yet I would suggest that the generation of young people who took Tahrir Square found within themselves the power of self-direction and empowerment—a thrilling outcome provoked by the efforts of many.

Linda

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