Education

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The TAMAM Conference in Beirut

Tuesday, May 31st, 2011

“Our teachers are working on our capacities to make of us

thinking human beings.”

-A Third Grade girl in a school video, at an all girl’s school,

Saudi Arabia

From Morocco to Oman and 10 countries in between, the word is school-based reform.  This widely acclaimed conference drew educators from throughout the Middle East and North Africa.  Most remarkably, the interim Minister of Education from Libya, a professor from Benghazi who is very knowledgeable in teaching and learning and is determined to reopen Libya’s schools as soon as possible (they’ve been closed during the unrest).

Sponsored by the Arab Thought Foundation, the American University of Beirut and the TAMAM (in Arabic:  al-tatweer al-mustanid ila al-madrasa)project, the program included school and country presentations. TAMAM is committed to a new paradigm in the Arab world: developing a theory for long-term educational change grounded in school practices while building capacity for improvement.  The major approach is inquiry or action research (bottom up change with top down support) focused on building communities of practice, professional development that changes habits of mind, transformation of school culture and working with university teams.  I was honored to give the keynote address on leadership capacity, debrief two World Cafes, and teach a workshop on team coaching.

TAMAM captured the imagination of the participants who are using many of the key ideas already.  I was most intrigued by Egypt’s report of its new approach to school-based reform with school improvement plans and local boards (“so that our policies won’t change every time we have a change of ministers”).  They were the first to admit that these good intentions have yet to reveal good results.

The last discussion question was particularly thoughtful: How can the schools, universities, and ministries go forward together into the future. The groups almost unanimously called for co-equal, mutual partnerships.

“Reform,” our friend Ambassador Hassouna told us before we came, “is the word used everywhere.”

More on TAMAM in the next post, Linda

 

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Amazing Lebanon

Friday, May 27th, 2011

Yesterday, Morgan and I had the privilege of enjoying the hospitality of the talented staff of the Arab Thought Foundation situated in downtown Beirut–surely one of the most beautiful cities in the world.  We were finalizing the plans for the TAMAM conference that will begin tomorrow at American University of Beirut.  Twelve countries will be involved in three days of sharing their work in school-based reform.  One of the most heartwarming stories so far–and testimony to the importance attributed to this event–is that the new Libyan Minister of Education and two other colleagues will be coming–by land!  In the next few days, I’ll be reporting on the events and ideas behind the conference.

Today, we visited just a small part of the wonders of Lebanon, a long and geographically diverse country much like California in its elongated shape. First we went to the Jeita Grotto northeast of Beirut. It really is two grottos (or caves/caverns). The upper grotto is vast and dramatic: “rich limestone deposits and an infinite variety of crystals reminiscent of wild petrified orchids, giant mushrooms and elaborate chandeliers.”  Yet there is more: a lower grotto with a deep blue river maze that can be traveled by boat.  This Grotto is a nominee for one of the wonders of the world; vote for its inclusion on line at www.jeitagrotto.com.

From the Grotto, we went to Byblos, the site of the longest occupied city in the world (circa 6500 years BC). Fortunately, we were with a knowledgeable archeologist who had spent time excavating at the site. He reviewed the complex history beginning with the Canaanites, the results of the excavations, and the mythological stories that emerged from this stone city.  One of our favorites: The Egyptian goddess, Isis, discovered the remains of Osiris near the well in Byblos and returned to Egypt with the resurrected Osiris along with cedar oil used in embalming to ensure the resurrected life of the dead.

Next:  the TAMAM conference

Linda and Morgan

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May 27 in Tahrir Square

Wednesday, May 25th, 2011

A large demonstration is planned for this coming Friday in Tahrir Square.  Driven by impatience, those who are unhappy with progress will gather along with those who are adamant that the Mubaraks do not get off without a trial.  The army has warned against this demonstration–primarily against “foreign agitators” (US and Israelis)–but are unclear about consequences.

As we leave Cairo, we are again aware of the press of people, smog, and conflicting demands and are not sure that we understand the revolution, although we do realize that media portrayals of its struggles and causes are far from the truth. Misinformation, rumors, paranoia, and assumptions swim among the people who want unity and change.  Whatever the long-term resolution may turn out to be, our many well informed advisers seem to be pretty confident that the country will make significant progress and is moving in the right direction.  Religious conflict and fundamental are less than described. And we can confirm that the Cairo we experienced was peaceful and relatively calm.

We are back in Beirut now, having walked the city today.  Downtown Beirut is like Paris, parts of Rome, Reggio Emilia, Ferrara, Italy.  Elegant historic buildings dotted with Rodeo Drive-like shops.  Orderly traffic.  A pearl of the east. The waterfront has been extensively rebuilt into grand hotels and shops.  By the time we leave on June 1, we hope to understand why such a modern city does not have a government in session.  Today is a holiday–the celebration of the anniversary of the Hezbollah-Israeli war of 2006.  No issue is more dominant anywhere than Israel and on the surface, things are not going well.

As we enter the weekend, our focus will be on Middle East education and the school-based reform initiatives to be shared by 12 countries attending the conference.

Linda and Morgan

 

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Arab Spring in Cairo continues

Tuesday, May 24th, 2011

We have talked with Muslims and Christians, observed, participated in two marches, and read the newspapers. Yet we offer a major caveat: we are only here for a week and most of our friends are middle class Egyptians. Here are a few of the things that we are learning so far:

• Top candidates for the presidency are El Baradei, Nobel Prize winner and former head of the UN Atomic Energy Commission, and Amr Moussa, former Arab League director.  Both have baggage; both have advantages. For El Baradei, he has lived primarily outside of Egypt and is not thought to understand the Cairo “street,” and the administration had a year to attempt to discredit him.  In his favor is his stature and the notion that he took on Mubarak long before the revolution.  Youth feel that Amr Moussa is part of the old regime, too cautious and conservative for the new Egypt. On the other hand, older people feel that he is an honorable man who could usher this country through a transition to democracy.  A liberal member of the Muslim Brotherhood, Abu El Fotouh, has indicated an interest in running. Younger people would prefer more of a fresh approach, including a leadership council that would include some of the younger revolutionaries; youth are divided between Amr Moussa and El Baradei at the moment, but that could change.  The presidential election is set for November and the parliamentary one is in September.

Economy is a major problem.  Tourism has dramatically declined, investors are wary, value of Egyptian pound has dropped, unemployment is very high (as has been done for many years, many people are hired at very low salaries for a job that could be done by one person). What is often not understood is that there are substantial subsidies here that make life possible: gasoline (selling for approx. 46 cents a gallon), sugar, medicines, health care, etc.  The people are very collaborative and help each other.  A major question is: will military relinquish their hold on large parts of the economy (owning and regulating businesses)? There are mixed opinions here, including “we must have a strong military to protect us against Israel.”

• On the formation of political parties…any party that is to be certified must agree that a Coptic Christian or a woman can be president.  Many of the most prominent revolutionaries here are women, yet we would be surprised if women played a large role in the transition government (although those involved are highly influential).

Religious conflict is of concern, but not as much as we imagined.  After discussing this issue with many Muslim and seven Coptic Christian friends, it is noted that this conflict has not shown up in Tahrir Square except for a demonstration for unity.  The issue that ignited the burning of two churches began with a woman—then two women—who wanted to leave their Christian husbands, fell in love with a Muslim man—then tried to convert to Islam. The triggers seem to be personal, although in poor areas like Bulaq and Shoubra, prejudice is more pronounced. The more conservative and radical Salafists (the most fundamentalist of Muslims) are a very small group; the Muslim Brotherhood, the more influential group are still thought to be no more than 20% of the electorate.

What does the future hold? Few will venture a prediction, although many say: “Egypt will be all right.”  More tomorrow about Friday.

Linda and Morgan

 

 

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Mother Theresa of Cairo

Monday, May 23rd, 2011

That is the way we refer to the remarkable woman we came to know 22 years ago when we first moved to Cairo. We had asked author and anthropologist, Andrea Rugh, how we could meet and help people who were working directly with the poor of Egypt.  Andrea introduced us to Madam Ansaf and her work. She probably invented the idea of “micro-lending” and engaged women in creative work that they could sell, how to rely on each other, and conversations about how to improve their lives.  Yesterday we spent the whole day with her son, his wife (an educator in Cairo), their daughters (one a translator in the movie industry), son-in-laws (all three men in the high tech business), and Ansaf’s new great grandson.  Ansaf’s son, Hanna, and his family took us to see her.

Madam Ansaf has become the center of near-worship by her followers.  She glows with the same radiant, loving nature that we have always known.  At nearly 90, she has never been to a doctor, nor does she take any medicines.  She doesn’t eat unless fed, telling us that “as long as she knows that anyone is without food, she cannot eat.”

She used to cook often for us (and made us promise to return so she could cook for us again), call herself our mother, and still asks about four of our children who came to visit while we lived here: Laura, Ellen, April and Tod.  A clipping on the wall reminded us of one of the stories of which she is most proud.  A young blind man was alone and had no prospect for marriage. And a young woman from upper Egypt had been disfigured by fire.  She suggested they marry—yet the young man hesitated. “I must touch her face,” he told Ansaf.  In the traditional family, it was unheard of to touch an unmarried woman’s face, but the father relented.  After lovingly touching the woman’s face, the young man smiled and said he would like to marry her.  They married and had four perfect sons.

Watch for more on the revolution…Linda and Morgan

 

 

 

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Faces of the Nile

Wednesday, May 18th, 2011

Our room at the Shepheard looks west across the Nile that runs beneath our balcony on the other side of the Corniche.  Felucca boats and river restaurants sit on both shores, while the opera house and grounds of the Nile island of Zamalek (where we used to live) sit just to the west.

In the morning, an eerie mist lies close to the water while geese fly low, nearly touching the gray water.  As the sun rises, everything turns to the gold of sand; yet as it rises more fully and during the heat of the day, the view turns white with unfortunate blankets of gray-brown smog nestled among the buildings.  With evening, the air appears to clear and the sunset turns this world of the Nile back into shades of gold and orange.  And with night, lights appear on the horizon and hug both sides of the Great River.

Is it possible that nothing has changed? Or that the river and shore masquerade as historically constant?  Life seems quiet and normal, but tonight at dinner and in the next days we’ll learn more about what is true in a land that has nearly always been prisoner to external colonists or internal autocrats.  More about what we are learning soon….

It’s wonderful to be back in this magical land, Linda

 

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First day in Beirut

Sunday, May 15th, 2011

Midnight, May 14, we flew from Frankfurt south along the Mediterranean coast, over the Greek Isles, Cyprus and came into Beirut with a nearly full moon turning the sea to milk.  From our hotel, now about 3:00 am (we had been traveling since 7 pm Friday night) we gazed from our balcony at the lights cascading from the mountains to the east. Not until we awoke this morning—or noon to be more exact—did we realize that we were by sea.

In the afternoon, we walked to the Corniche (drive-walk bordering the sea) and had lunch amid families and their beautiful (gamila) children. Sunday is the day free from work here—much to our surprise since Friday is the Moslem day of rest.  The day was incredibly balmy—perhaps in the mid-70s.  Along the coast, young men swam in the welcoming waters, diving from moss-covered rocks. Fisherman steadied poles that may have been 30 feet long.  In the outdoor cafés, frequented by local families, about 20% of the women wore hijabs (the scarf) and many smoked the Arab pipes.

Beirut is a clean Cairo with virtually no trash on the streets, yet the construction is as disorganized.  Solar panels are abundant.  The city is peaceful, although five were killed along the Lebanese-Israeli border today as people massed to demonstrate against Israel—today being the anniversary of the founding of Israel (Nakbo Day). Islamic-Coptic Christian violence continues in Egypt.  As in the US, huge billboards predict the end of the world on May 21, 2011—so perhaps we don’t have to worry about other problems.

In the morning, we’ll meet with the staff of the education project (TAMAM) here at the hotel, then take off for Cairo.  More on Tuesday….

Have a great month, Linda

 

 

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Moving with the wind…

Monday, April 18th, 2011

 

Which is ferocious here.  Our neighbors from home, Sharon and Tom are here by way of small plane, which can’t fly now.  However, the wind doesn’t slow down the Taosenas nor thwart their creative impulses.  A generous and fascinating people.

On Saturday, we were all invited to a delicious dinner in the new home of Liz Cunningham and Skip Miller who seem to be at the apex of several other friends here. Liz is the keeper and writer of the website “Mabel Dodge Luhan and the Remarkable Women of Taos” and author of the acclaimed In Contemporary Rhythm: The Art of Ernest L. Blumenschein.” She is now preparing for the year of the woman, next year along with the Centennial of New Mexico.  The notion of how to identify  “remarkable women” is a companion to our search for “women to watch.”

Skip is a historian and forest archeologist (and potter) who knows Taos and the Pueblo Indians with an exacting intimacy that is immediately treasured.

We prepare to leave Taos on Wednesday. The short visit this time requires that we return in the summer and fall.  Perhaps I could linger longer on this book, continually finding excuses to return to this wonderful land.

While here, I’ve had the pleasure to read with the New Mexico Writers at Mabel Dodge Luhan’s on April 8, and at a book talk and signing in the DH Lawrence room of the La Fonda Hotel on April 15.  A busy time.  And, am getting close to the outline for the Taos book with these themes: DH Lawrence, the archeology of communities, Justine’s search for spirituality and consciousness, Amir’s participation in the revolution of Egypt.

 

Next post: reports from Egypt

 

 

 

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It is time for women to band together…

Sunday, April 10th, 2011

“It is time for women to band together, take the power, and heal the Earth.”

-Jane Goodall

Linda and I are always searching for women leaders to watch.  We add these women to our list begun in chapter 8 of  Women’s Ways of Leading.

I just finished reading the 5th issue of World Pulse Magazine, “Earth”, http://www.WorldPulse.com.  What an inspiration!  It is filled with stories of women leaders around the world who are engaged in projects, causes, and activities to restore the environment to health.  In one of the article they list six eco-heroines to watch.  These women are emerging as environmental leaders.  I want to “shout out” their names to the world, encouraging their leadership and stimulating other women to leadership.  Leah Wickham, Fiji; Peggie Liu, China; Rosemary Olive Mbone Enie, Cameroon; Josette Perard, Haiti; Phaedra Ellis-Lamkin, US; and Melinda Kramer, US. You can find out more about Melinda, who is building coalitions around the global water crisis, and Rosemary, who is involving African women in the environmental justice and climate action movement, at WorldPulse.com then choose Pulsewire and put in their first names.

Another women to watch is Noha Atef, Egyptian blogger, who has built a data base of human rights abuses in Egypt. tortureinEgypt.net.

-Mary Gardner

Tomorrow…more on Taos -Linda

 

 

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Learning in Taos

Saturday, April 9th, 2011

When the rains returned to Taos a couple of days ago, we were quickly willing to take credit. For Taos is now a federal disaster zone because of the drought (“we didn’t have a winter”).  The weather is a temperamental character in the drama that is Taos.  It can be freezing in the morning with ice on the windshield, yet as we step outside the tulips have burst into bloom, and lunch can be served outside.

Last night was the New Mexico Writers evening with DH Lawrence at the home of Mabel Dodge Luhan.  Nearly 14 writers and entertainers perform—including Dean Stockwell and Mirabel Starr—and I read from the fictionalized letters from DH Lawrence to Isabella Hassouna, his Egyptian muse.  These letters are from my second novel in the Cairo Trilogy, Etruscan Evenings.  Even though the emcee and I said the letters were from a novel, afterwards, people came up to me to ask about what happened to Lawrence’s child.  I said, wait for the next novel.

This morning, we attend a Third Farmer’s Conference attended by Hispanics, Indians, and Anglos. (And, we have been told that these subcultures never work together! Not so). Officials from the Department of Agriculture and other agencies participated in the program.  A young woman,  newly appointed to the Minority Advisory Council said, “Perhaps our grandparents were right. We are reawakening to what is important. There is a profound change with this administration that is trying to make things right, address ancient wrongs and historic grievances.”  One of the key items was a new process for Hispanics and women to submit claims for cases in which they were discriminated against in getting loans for ranches or farms.

Tomorrow morning, we’ll meet with Jeff Boyer, archeologist, who is offering a job to Justine (my fictional protagonist). In the afternoon, a conversation with women on the pueblo followed by dinner with the former mayor of Taos and his wife.

Tulips and stars appear effortlessly. And so, apparently, does learning.

 

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